Published in Time Out Istanbul
July 2006
This month: the Bosphorus demon, the Sahil Yolu sprite: the 22RE, Eminönü to Reşitpaşa
Forget the Bosphorus ferries or the overpriced tourist coaches: the new hip way to see the city is by good old reliable bus. You’ll be amazed at the rich sightseeing experience one bus journey can bring, and there’s something for everyone along the way; Vanessa Able charges up her akbil, switches off her phone, and tries to remember to give her seat up to the elderly… All aboard!
The 22RE sets off from the bus depot at Eminönü, close to the New Mosque and crosses the Galata bridge, to the first stop at Karaköy, where you can explore the little fish market just to the right of the bridge, or take a small boat from here across the Golden Horn and back to Eminönü for a mere 1 YTL. Next stop, Tophane, nargile heaven. Just behind the big mosque ahead of the bus stop, you’ll find a veritable plethora of nargile cafes, most with outdoor seating, and a few kebab stands. Keep on in a northerly direction and you’ll hit the Istanbul Modern, the city’s most extensive contemporary art collection, hidden behind a car park.
Onward, past Salıpazarı where, contrary to its name, there is no market on Tuesday, or any day of the week. But you can hop out here to gawk at the giant cruise ships that dock in the summer, or you can stay on board to Fındıklı, home to a somewhat shabby park, with plastic chairs and tables right on the Bosphorus, where you can enjoy a humble çay with a view of Üsküdar.
It’s Men at Work at Kabataş, the bit where the unsuspecting 22RE gets caught in heavy traffic due to roadworks from the seemingly endless process of the Kabataş-Taksim tunnel. Was supposed to be done in February, is still a sand pit in June. Hop off here for the Dolmabahçe Palace.
Past Akaretler to Beşiktaş and the population of the bus suddenly triples as the doors open to the masses at one of the city’s largest transport hubs. It’s also a good spot to alight if you need to answer nature’s call: you’ll find one of Istanbul’s nicest toilets on Büyük Beşiktaş Carşısı 16, where you can have a shave or shower, as well as the usual stuff.
Wave to the posh folk at the Çirağan, the notoriously upmarket former palace-cum-hotel on the Bosphorus, with a particularly swish sunken swimming pool ideal for a summer treat, past Yahya Efendi and Galatasaray Universitesi to Kabataş Lisesi which is the first stop for Ortaköy. You can stroll around the markets here, especially at weekends, when you’ll find all sorts of arts and crafts items, jewellery, bags, and general gift material.
After Şifa Yurdu, the road opens out to the Bosphorus and past Kömür Tevzii, you’ll come to Kuruçeşme Parkı, a popular spot with sunbathers bound for the Galatasaray Island, owned by its namesake football club. Don’t expect a sandy bank covered in palm trees, though; the island looks more like a grounded ship. Boasts swimming pool, nightclubs and restaurants.
Kolej is a good place to jump out in the event of heavy traffic, and stroll up to Bebek or even Rumeli Hisarı, if you have the energy. On the way you’ll pass Arnavutköy, a former fishing village replete with old Ottoman yalıs, wooden houses built in the 19th century style. Seafood a-plenty here, and lots of outdoor seating. However, you are separated from the quiet waters of the Bosporus by the cars that rip up and down the coast road at close to the speed of very irritating sound.
The next stop after Çamlıbahçe is Bebek, where corporate coffee drinkers can sample the newly opened Starbucks wedged into the trendy waterfront strip; surely one of the most scenic of the chain’s locations in Turkey, possibly in the world.
Keep rolling through Küçük Bebek to Boğazıcı Universitesi or the next stop at Asiyan where the budding fishermen among you can get out and cast off among fellow fishermen and women. Compare bait and buckets, or just sit and watch the giant tankers cruise by from the benches lining the Bosporus walkway.
Rumeli Hisarı is one for the historians, built by Sultan Mehmet II in the 15th century to prepare for his assault on Constantinople in 1453. Check out the museum and open-air theatre any day except Wednesday from 9:30am – 4pm.
Five non-descript stops later, you’ll get to Cinaraltı and the next station, Emirgan for the Sakıp Sabancı museum, former home of one of Turkey’s business giant families. The museum boasts a collection of Ottoman calligraphies and 300 paintings from the 19th century onwards, as well as a chic café that is a spin-off Taksim’s legendary Changa restaurant.
At Tokmakburnu, the trusty old 22RE leaves its coastal route and takes a turn up the hill towards Reşitpaşa. Hop off here if you fancy the 5-minute stroll down into Istinye, nestled into the sheltered Bosporus bay, looking for all the world like seaside village from a bygone age.
Up the hill past Tokmak Burnu is Istiniye Bayırı where gardeners can keep their eyes peeled for the two well-stocked garden centres on the way up the hill here, and farmers short of a sheep or two, might find them grazing behind the fence at the Kavşak stop. One begins to feel one has left the city centre…
Reşitpaşa begins at Tuncay Artun Caddesi, where kebab munchers can check out the stands and lahmacun salons among the numerous shops on the street.
A couple of stops on, and the bus rolls into Meydan, the beating heart of Reşitpaşa. It’s a small square with even more tightly packed food stands, and hardware stores. The streets are getting smaller and more winding, and an increasing number of drivers coming from the opposite direction seem to be swearing at the bus that is blocking their way.
Still further to Bal Sokak, where the 22RE takes a turn to reveal a glittering verdant valley with a Mosque at the bottom. Is this still Istanbul? The houses could be mistaken for village dwellings, with their terracotta rooftops and creeping vines.
And a pat on the back if you’ve come this far to the Reşitpaşa stop at the end of the line. Not much to see here in the 15-minute wait for the next bus back, other than the big waterworks plant next door and some very sleepy dogs.
